As the wave falls and loses power, surfers can exit the wave by turning their boards back toward open water. Surfers ride the wave as it breaks toward the shore. Being able to stand up is the mark of an experienced surfer. Just as the wave breaks, the surfers jump from their bellies to their feet, crouching on their boards. When surfers see a wave they can ride, they paddle quickly to catch the rising wave. For river waves or those at artificial surfing facilities, surfers watch waves develop and jump right into the breaking wave. Surfers must be able to ride and safely exit the wave-not too close to shore or rocks. A wave must be strong enough to ride, but not dangerous enough to toss the surfer as it breaks. Experienced surfers assess several different qualities in every wave. There, surfers sit on their boards and watch waves roll in to shore. Surfers paddle or are towed in to the surf line, the area of open water where waves break as they near a coast. This is called bodysurfing.) The concept is simple, but the practice is not. (Sometimes, you don’t even need the board. A breaking wave, a board and a brave athlete are all that is needed for the sport. Sur fing is possible in all these places because the concept is simple. They even ride the “silver dragon,” the giant tidal bore of China’s Qiantang River. They share the water with great white sharks in South Africa. They trek through jungles to pristine beaches in Southeast Asia. Surfers dust a foot of snow off their surfboards to chase waves off the coast of Antarctica. Surfers, however, do not limit themselves to warm weather or ocean waves. states of Hawaii and California, and countries such as Australia. Surfing is usually associated with warm ocean beaches like those found in the U.S. Wherever waves break, surfers will ride them.
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